mo•jo n., 1. short for mobile journalist. 2. a flair for charm and creativity.

Words

  • by Roberto Rocha
  • published from Indonesia
  • on 2010.08.01

A love letter to Indonesia

You had me at “Selamat datang”.

Indonesian rainbow

We’ve been together for month now, and it’s time we had that talk. I don’t know where you see this going, but I could say “the hell with it” to the rest of my year-long trip and stay here with you.

I’m sorry, I didn’t mean to freak you out. You didn’t really expect that, huh? Oh, stop giggling and listen.

Yes, you have beautiful beaches, scenic mountains, and hallowed temples, but it’s not just your body I fell in love with.

I feel really good with you. You treat me so well, and it’s not because of my money. Most times you don’t even ask for money. You just like being around me.

You give me a lift on a motorcycle in the rain then take me home to give me a dry shirt and some hot coffee. You talk to me on the train and take time off work the next day to show me around town. You teach me that it’s idiotic to keep a schedule, since you stop me every 30 meters to talk.

No, I don’t mind that you ask me 20 times a day where I’m from and how long I’ve been here. I don’t mind getting the occasional mouthful of truck exhaust and being nearly deafened by 100 passing motorbikes. You’re like a lover that farts in bed because she’s so comfortable and self-assured. You secretly know I’ll love you no matter what.

You don’t bother learning English because you’re too smart for that. You know that if I make the effort to speak your language, I’ll be rewarded in spades: a motorcycle ride through your narrow alleys, a free coconut sweet, your adorable laughter.

You’re religious, but not insufferably. You trim and mould religion to suit your lifestyle, not the other way around. You wear your Muslim headscarf with tight jeans and heels (and have no idea how confusingly hot that is). And you’re a good sport about it: you train monkeys to bow to Allah in town squares then poke them in the butt with a drumstick.

So you’re not exactly the best chef. Your food is good, but it can get pretty repetitive and sometimes outright disturbing. What the hell is this? A flattened and deep-fried lung? And yet, you manage to make me feel like a gastronomical Indiana Jones when your ugly streets explode to life with a million food stalls that tug me 10 different ways with their peanutty garlic grease.

But for God’s sake, go easy on the sugar. I can’t even taste the tea in this glass of diabetes. And do you have to smoke your clove cigarettes while you drive the bus? It’s not exactly well-ventilated in here.

Oh, whatever. Just go ahead, take my picture and add me on Facebook. I won’t understand anything you say there, but that’s ok. After all, our relationship is complicated.

Comments

13 people commented so far
  1. Thanks a lot for the love letter, we won’t say goodbye, it’s better a “Sampai Jumpa”. It’s nice to have ever had you here … ^_^ & thanks for the effort to know and understand us.

    by Mayke on 2010.08.04
  2. I loved this. Its made me even more deermined to go to this beautiful country :) any tips for backpacking on the cheap?

    by Ashley on 2010.08.08
  3. I’m happy you liked it Ashley! There aren’t many tips I can give you for backpacking on the cheap, since it’s a cheap country as it is. But here goes:
    - Couchsurfing.org
    - Learn some Bahasa Indonesia to haggle with vendors and ask for a cheaper hotel room.
    - Limit your time in touristy areas like Kuta in Bali or Yogyakarta in Java. Prices tend to be higher there.
    - If flying between islands, book your tickets with Lion Air as early as you can.
    - Accept favours and freebies without the urge to pay them back. Indonesians are a generous lot.

    Have fun and selamat jalan.

    by Roberto Rocha on 2010.08.09
  4. I LOVE this. It is INCREDIBLY spot on.

    I really, really want to go back. I miss Indo.

    Noone here offers to have you stay at their house with aunts and cousins and grannies all over the place. Noone obsesively asks “Sendiri?” here, or yells “Shantik” as you go by.. I even miss nasi goreng! and Bintang.

    Boohooo

    Im glad your still there though. You are my link.

    by Canelle on 2010.08.10
  5. One of the best love stories I’ve ever had the pleasure of reading! I’ve never been to Indonesia but your love for this country came through loud and clear in your writing. Felt like I was there!
    xx

    by Sonia on 2010.08.10
  6. thanks for your lovely letter! me as an indonesian and am so touched with your letter.

    just some more advice for you: indonesia is not just all about bali and jogja (you seemed to just have visited those two cities). there are ample of beautiful places here like semarang, garut, bandung, jakarta, lampung, medan, maluku, and more and more :)

    sampai jumpa di indonesia :)

    by ian on 2010.08.19
  7. Haha! This letter is brilliant. It had me laughing out loud in quite a few places, and yet still manages to capture your love for the place. Well done! I hope your relationship lasts.

    by Amanda on 2010.08.19
  8. Ian, thanks for you comment, but I don’t know why you think we just went to Jogja and Bali. In fact, we skipped Bali and we spent seven weeks between Papua, Sulawesi, and all of Java. And I was in Jogja for only three days.

    by Roberto Rocha on 2010.08.19
  9. [...] Love Letter to Indonesia Though they haven’t been together for long, Roberto Rocha starts thinking about commitment to his self assured lover that farts in bed. [...]

  10. That is what LOVE is about!
    que viva el AMOR!

    by JaNa on 2010.09.11
  11. I love this! After we left Australia, I also wrote a love letter. Some places you just connect with right from the moment you get off the plane. I love when I find those places!

    by Jade on 2010.09.30
  12. hahahahaha
    read this through a friend’s link on facebook

    you shared every peculiar bits of our place with an objective view of a foreigner, really appreciated that :D

    thank you for the love letter
    love it!

    don’t get “kapok”

    awan @jakarta

    by awan on 2011.03.22
  13. LOVE this :) Thanks for putting this up, one of the greatest love letters i’ve read!

    by Laura on 2011.12.14

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