Hoi An is a mandatory stop in Vietnam’s tourist trail. Secondly, because it’s a historic city, a UNESCO heritage site with lantern-lit cobblestone streets and centenarian homes that survived multiple wars.

But firstly because of fashion. There are an estimated 500 tailor and cobbler shops that make any – I mean ANY – custom-fit clothes. All this in a town of barely 120,000.

In Hoi An, your imagination is the limit. You can design your own clothes. Show up with a picture of a model wearing a surreal dress at a fashion show and ask for one for yourself. You can pick something from one of their phonebook-thick catalogs with men’s, women’s and children’s fashions from American and British brands.

Or you can settle for dresses, shirts and suits from their mannequins, which look identical from store to store.

We spent five days there and lament to admit that it was mostly inside shops or walking among them, browsing windows, getting measured, trying on the results and asking for alterations.

Yes, we became slightly insane, somewhat fascinated, and entirely obsessed. And we learned numerous lessons from our wins and misses. Hopefully you won’t have any of the latter with these tips.

1. Know what you want

It’s better to make a list of things you need before browsing the shops. It gives you focus, essential when making comparisons and setting budgets. You won’t spend money needlessly or feel overwhelmed by the choices in their catalogs.

I preferred to invest on classic pieces with the best fabrics possible, which will never go out of style.

2. Know their limitations

I ordered a pair of black capri pants made with a wool-cashmere blend, the same fabric used in suits. The pants came out exactly as I wanted. But since it’s a snug fit, and the fabric isn’t stretchy, I realized that I’ll struggle to sit down with it.

And because of that, I probably won’t use it much.

We learned that sellers are there to do what you ask, not to to give fashion advice or tutor you in the limitations of each cloth. If you’re a sartorial lamebrain, don’t invent anything. Go for what has been tested and approved.

3. More expensive does not mean better

I ordered from three shops. The most pleasant experiences, at all levels, was with the cheapest one: Thu Vân 2, on 499 Cua Dai St. I bought a total of eight garments, including a suit, for US$150. Many clothes means more bargaining power, but all the pieces came out perfect, and I only had to ask for alterations in half of them.

While chatting with the seller, I learned that the owner has two other stores that sell the same clothes at a much higher markup. Why? They’re in better locations with more foot traffic.

Meaning: When sellers insist their high prices reflect better quality, it’s a lie.

At Bin Hahn, a shop on 53 Tran Hung Dao St., I spent a lot more. Just a three-piece suit cost $105. When I compared to the other stores, the quality and fitting appeared exactly the same. A trench coat that cost me $70 could have been made for $40 in less snazzy shops.

Though I came out lucky, Roberto didn’t. A suit he ordered needed seven alterations on the jacket. On the fifth, it was mangled so badly they had to redo it from scratch. And it still had flaws on the lapel and the collar, which he couldn’t fix becasue we had a bus to catch.

And because he was fed up.

4. Give yourself time

Alterations will always be needed to ensure a perfect fit. Ask them to fix a garment two, three, as many times needed until you’re 100% satisfied.

Go shopping in the morning or at sunset. Stores aren’t air-conditioned and trying on a wool jacket at the height of tropical heat is not only unpleasant, but it makes you overlook some details in your rush to take it off. It happened to me.

But if you don’t want to travel to Vietnam just for clothes, make an order by email. Send your dimensions and a picture of the garment, and they’ll send it to your home.

But be ready to pay a tailor in your city to fix whatever they make.

Here are capsule reviews of the shops we used:

Bi Hahn – 53 Tran Hung Dao St.
Tel. +84 935 071 349
bihanhsilk@gmail.com

The most expensive of the bunch where patrons are served bottled water and wet napkins at each visit. Our experiences were varied: I was happy with my clothes but doubtful whether the prices were justified. Time will tell.

Roberto was extremely unsatisfied with his suit jacket, which needed seven(!) alterations and it still wasn’t perfect. They promised to refund $30.

Thu Vân 2 – 499 Cua Dai St.
Tel. +84 510 3915 007
thuthao@dng.vnn.vn

Not to be mistaken with Thu Vân 1, which is in the heart of the old city and is much pricier (I checked).

I liked what they did and the seller was delightful. Prices were unbeatable. As we say on eBay, A++++++++ seller!

Thu Tâm Fashion – 70 Tran Phu St.
Tel. +84 510 3911 021
clothshopphuoc_ha@yahoo.com

The store that sold me the grey coat with red trimmings (see pics below). Good experience; the coat needed only one alteration. Medium prices if you negotiate.

See the result of this marathon below.

[View with PicLens]