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Bcharré: snow, poetry, and cedars in Lebanon’s north.
“In Lebanon, you can ski in the morning and go to the beach in the afternoon.” So goes the old cliché that every travel guide and Lebanese host love repeating.
What a waste that would be. Forget this piece of cram-travel advice, which, as a matter of fact, is strictly theoretical: if you can ski, it means it’s winter. And winter is too cold for the beach. Instead, slowly savour Bcharré, a mountain village that seems to have been plucked right out of the Swiss Alps.
Or, more appropriately, from a fairy tale.
At an altitude of 1650 meters, Bcharré is close to the Qadisha Valley, roughly fours hours from Beirut. The road leading to it is among the most scenic in the country, adorned with snowy peaks, canyons, olive groves, vineyards and valleys.
You can begin your visit exploring the town’s steep streets, peeking inside stone-built Maronite churches, shopping for home-made chocolate, or even being invited for tea and cake at the home of a friendly local, like we were. Other attraction include a Phoenician tomb dating back to 750 BC, and the 500-meter long Qadisha Grotto.
At night, the city is motionless. But since the town’s population is mostly Christian, alcohol is amply available in every little corner shop. Buy a few bottles of Ksara and Kefraya wines, some nuts and hommos, and invite the small hotel crowd for a few drinks around the oil furnace of the cozy hostel Tiger House.
The next day you can combine two activities. The first is a visit to the Kahlil Gibran museum, which honours the Bcharré native who gave the world The Prophet. Thous he chose the US as his home, he came back to his hometown for his eternal rest. In addition to the impressive collection of Gibran’s paintings, the museum enjoys a privileged view of the region.
From there, take a taxi to the cedar reserve, which in fact harbours only a few of Lebanon’s iconic trees. Beside it is a ski hill, which was totally empty during our visit in mid-December. It’s a chance to see snow while enjoying pleasant temperatures.
On the way back, wave away the taxis. The walk down the winding mountain road has stunning views of the area. Few places have such a scenery concentrated in a two-hour walk. Back at the hotel, another well-deserved round of Lebanese wines.






Comments
Qualquer dia desses ainda vou conhecer esse lugar…
Posso dizer que viciei nas suas histórias, comecei a leitura em ordem cronologica a 8 horas atras, com medo que chegasse esse momento, onde não haveriam mais atualizações. Aqui estou esperando novas atualizações dessa espetacular aventura.
A forma como vocês expõem suas passagens estão me deixando ainda mais convicto que devo algum dia fazer uma viagem dessa.
boa sorte para vocês nessa jornada
Raphael Viana da Cruz
Newark – NJ
Poxa Raphael, seu comentário iluminou meu dia! O que me deixa mais feliz é imaginar que de alguma forma a gente possa ter te ajudado a cristalizar seu sonho de fazer uma viagem dessas. Um abraço!
Bem legal, eu fui no verão, não tinha neve, mas nem por isso perdia em beleza.
Muitas saudades desse lugar, do Líbano todo.
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